In the future, everyone will blame the eighties for all societal ills, similar to how previous generations blamed the sixties. Peter York, a key observer of the era's style and cultural trends, reflects on the significant shifts in culture that emerged during this time. One major aspect often overlooked is the "style culture" that began in the eighties, which continues to resonate in contemporary culture today. This resurgence is currently celebrated in three major exhibitions across London.
Celebrated Exhibitions
At the National Portrait Gallery, the walls are adorned with bright, glossy images from The Face, a groundbreaking youth culture magazine that has shaped the creative landscape in Britain and beyond. The exhibition showcases over 80 photographers, including notable names like Juergen Teller and David Sims, featuring iconic figures such as a young Kate Moss and Jean Paul Gaultier.
Across the river at Tate Modern, the exhibition Leigh Bowery! highlights the outrageous life of a pivotal figure in eighties fashion and club culture, showcasing his extravagant costumes that epitomize the decade's vibrant subcultures.
Another fascinating exhibition, Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London, at the Fashion and Textile Museum, explores the DIY creativity that characterized the era. This exhibition features maverick designers and stylists like Christopher Nemeth and Judy Blame, as well as early works from now-famous designers like John Galliano.
The Eighties Reappraisal
The collective nostalgia for the eighties is palpable among those who lived through it, as well as curiosity from today's youth. With the eighties being as distant from the present as the forties were from that time, the question arises: why this renewed interest now? Ekow Eshun, an author and curator, emphasizes that the eighties represent a pre-digital period that is both foreign and tantalizingly close to today's culture. The Face magazine, in particular, celebrated notions of fluidity and identity, which feel contemporary today.
The magazine's founding by Nick Logan marked a significant shift in pop culture, coinciding with the rise of club culture and independent fashion designers eager to share their creativity. The Face became an arbiter of pop culture, showcasing diverse talents and styles in a vibrant community.
Creative Community and DIY Ethos
The exhibitions reveal a creative community driven more by iconoclasm and experimentation than by profit. Many artists and designers emerged from a lack of resources, fostering a spirit of innovation and DIY ethos reminiscent of the punk movement. Martin Green, curator of the Outlaws exhibition, notes that this era was defined by deconstruction and repurposing, as creators used whatever materials they could find to craft unique outfits.
The Youth Employment Training Scheme, initiated in 1981, provided opportunities for young creatives, much like today’s generation, who face a challenging economic environment that stifles creativity. The values of the Face—embracing diversity and creativity without traditional hierarchies—allowed many from working-class backgrounds to thrive.
A Longing for Opportunity
Today’s youth appear to be drawn to the eighties not just for its style but for the opportunities it represented. Unlike the corporate-driven world of today, the eighties offered a sense of unlimited creative possibility, communal living, and a vibrant cultural scene. There’s a palpable hunger for that time, reflecting a desire for the freedom and creativity that defined an era now celebrated through these exhibitions.
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